Every time I take a drive on the South Island’s Great Coast Road (SH6), between Westport and Greymouth, it never fails to cast me under its spell. It’s like a heady, implausible mix of Hawai’i and Ireland; of Maui’s Road to Hana and the Wild Atlantic Way. On one side, the raw, unbridled foam-flecking power of the ocean tempest; while across the road, fortress-like mountains piercing the sky, draped in thick, lush rainforest. It’s a knock-out medley of elemental scenery to thrill all senses. Curiously, the winter months are arguably the best time to savour the Great Coast Road because visitor numbers are thinner yet the weather is typically better. Winter is often the West Coast's driest season with average winter temperatures generally higher than Christchurch and Queenstown. If you’re launching your on-road exploratory from Westport, make a date with one of the Pounamu Pathway experience centres. Westport’s revitalised Coaltown Museum has reopened as the Museum of Kawatiri, the second experience centre to open along the Pounamu Pathway. Designed and created by Wētā Workshop, it’s a stirring celebration of the heritage and intrepid endeavour of the Buller people, underpinned by the lure of pounamu, coal and gold. As you’d expect from Wētā Workshop, there’s a lot of tricked-up technological wizardry powering this immersive experience. Heading south along the Great Coast Road, four seasons in one day vividly powered proceedings, with forbidding storm clouds scudding across the sky before yielding to bright sunshine along the gloriously carved coastline, seemingly under assault from the pounding surf. The highway skirts the ancient limestone cliffs of Paparoa National Park and there’s a feast of outdoorsy treats to pick and choose from, along the way. If you’re up for some hikes, my first suggestion would be Fox River and the Inland Pack Track, starting from the car park at the mouth of the river. Built in 1867 during the gold rush to avoid dangerous coastal travel, the Inland Pack Track gives access to some of the finest features of Paparoa National Park. If the weather is behaving, a great sampler is the 4 hour return walk to the Ballroom Overhang, a colossal 100-metre-long limestone outcrop, that has provided a safe place to shelter for centuries. There are several river crossings along the way, only ankle-deep unless there’s been heavy rain. But if the weather has been fine, it’s a gem. Another salivating option that isn’t so weather-dependent is the Pororari River Gorge loop walk. Doubling as the entry/exit point for the Paparoa Great Walk, the river track follows a spectacular limestone gorge with two main features – a river with huge rocks set amongst deep pools, and beautiful forest featuring subtle changes from subtropical to temperate. It’s a two-hour walk, running the gamut across every shade of green. Even the gently flowing water resembles liquid jade. It’s a drop-dead gorgeous walk. Keep an eye out for those famous giant snails, Powelliphanta. Their oversized shells come in an array of patterned colours, from reds and browns to yellow and black. (Hurricanes supporters.) They adore earthworms and suck them up through their mouth just like we do with spaghetti. Back on the highway, the karst-strewn landscape of Punakaiki is just five minutes away. Nestled at the base of the thickly forested Paparoa Ranges, the hillsides are thickly stitched in rimu, beech and matai trees, in addition to the striking nikau palms. The national park’s visitor information centre is situated on the highway roadside – and after its $40m the monumental transformation, it’s now home to the Paparoa Experience. Opened 18 months ago and operated by the local hapu, Ngāti Waewae, this magnificent multi-media exhibition centre was designed by Gibson International. Blending Māori culture with history and geology, it’s beautifully crafted and thoroughly entertaining, thrusting you deep into the natural riches of the area, offering all manner of insights on the formation of the Paparoa range, the incredible fossil records like the 30 million year old whale backbone and the karst landscape beneath your feet. A great touch is the blowhole encounter, where you stand inside the surge chamber to feel the blast of wind and waves. But what I really loved is the 180-degree cinematic experience that transports you deep into the wild wonder of Paparoa National Park, celebrating the untouched beauty of the region and the conservation programmes underway to preserve it for future generations. Right across the road, the biggest blockbuster of all is of course an intimate encounter with nature’s theatre at Pancake Rocks and Blowholes. remarkable geological formations, which resemble layer upon layer of pancakes, is the result of many centuries of weathering. The formal term for this fantastic tableau is stylobedding. When the tide is high, nature’s inter-play of stone ...
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