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Laird Hamilton has been hailed as the world's greatest big-wave surfer. His first book, Force of Nature, allows listeners a rare glimpse inside the unique philosophy that has created his circumstances, and not the other way around. After all, this is a man whose biological father abandoned him shortly after he was born; whose first job was working on a pig farm; who dropped out of school in 11th grade. And then the career decision: surfer.

From the bestselling author of Assholes: A Theory, a book that—in the tradition of Shopclass as Soulcraft, Barbarian Days and Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance—uses the experience and the ethos of surfing to explore key concepts in philosophy. The existentialist philosopher Jean-Paul...

Christian Beamish, a notable writer for The Surfer's Journal, has done what every guy since Huck Finn has dreamed of doing: making his own boat and sailing it to paradise, with adventures along the way. Christian Beamish, a former editor at The Surfer's Journal, envisioned a low-tech...

Before a surfing accident caused thirty-three-year-old Devon Raney to lose all but 15 percent of his vision, he had already lived an extraordinary life. Time and again he'd gone against the grain to maximize time for his passions--surfing, skateboarding, and snowboarding--bringing him into the...

The inspirational story of one woman learning to surf and creating a new life in gritty, eccentric Rockaway Beach Unmoored by a failed marriage and disconnected from her high-octane life in the city, Diane Cardwell finds herself staring at a small group of surfers coasting through mellow waves...

In this revelatory and original book, award-winning author of the acclaimed surf memoir On a Wave illuminates the connection between waves, addiction, and recovery, exploring what surfing can teach us about the powerful undertow of addictive behaviors and the ways to swim free of them. Addiction...

Malie Pukui doesn’t believe in happy ever after. After a tragedy caused her to flee her family and friends in Devon she found a fresh start in Hawaii. Here, working at a surf school, she can give back to those in need and try to overcome the greatest loss in her life. Moved around foster homes throughout his childhood, Todd Masters has worked hard to be able to offer a brighter future to young disadvantaged children. Now he has his own charitable foundation working with a surf school in Hawaii, a job he loves, but he still can’t put his past behind him.

Wave Woman is the untold story of an adventurer whose zest for life and learning kept her alive for 98 years. Betty Pembroke Heldreich Winstedt was the granddaughter of Mormon pioneers who, after spending an active and athletic childhood in Salt Lake City, moved to Santa Monica with her family and enrolled at USC to study dental hygiene. Betty went on to elope with a man she hardly knew, and to have two daughters.

What makes for a surfing life? With a blaze of groundbreaking performances and a swag of titles claimed from all over the world to his name, Australian world champion surfer Nat Young might know. His seventieth birthday inspired some reflection on exactly that, and on the waves and characters...

Surfen is meer dan alleen een sport; het is een manier van leven voor veel liefhebbers over de hele wereld. In de kern houdt surfen in dat je op de golven surft terwijl je op een surfplank staat of ligt. Het is een spannende en dynamische activiteit die atletisch vermogen, evenwicht en een diepe verbinding met de oceaan combineert.

Surfing is more than just a sport; it's a way of life for many enthusiasts around the world. At its core, surfing involves riding waves while standing or lying on a surfboard. It's a thrilling and dynamic activity that combines athleticism, balance, and a deep connection with the ocean.

Aikau's legendary life and legacy, a pipeline into the exhilarating world of surfing, and an important chronicle of the Hawaiian Renaissance and the emergence of modern Hawaii. In the 1970s, a decade before bumper stickers and T-shirts bearing the phrase Eddie Would Go began popping up all over the Hawaiian islands and throughout the surfing world, Eddie Aikau was proving what it meant to be a "waterman." 

NATIONAL BESTSELLER * 2025 BOOKLIST EDITORS' CHOICE SELECTION A former Obama speechwriter moves to the Jersey Shore and learns to surf with the help of his brother-in-law: a tattooed, truck-driving Joe Rogan superfan. David, the Yale-educated writer with a fear of sharks, and Matt, the daredevil...

Jaimal Yogis deja la secundaria urbana para escapar a Hawái con un par de libros y una inquietud por aprender a surfear. En la isla, lejos de la vida urbana, emprende un viaje repleto de altibajos, que pronto se convertirá en una travesía de aprendizaje. Misma que lo llevará desde las cabañas y cálidas olas del Pacífico, hasta los barcos de bahía, universidades, monasterios y aguas heladas de Brooklyn.

Bliss hat alles, was sie braucht, um glücklich zu sein: ihren Van, die Freiheit der kalifornischen Küsten und das Rauschen der Wellen. Doch als der Camper in Laguna Beach den Geist aufgibt, findet sie sich unverhofft am elitären Surf-College, der Emerald Bay Academy, wieder. Zwischen Abendwellen und der Versuchung, an einem Surfcontest teilzunehmen, gerät Bliss ins Visier von Kieran – Coach der Academy, Weltklassesurfer und ein Mann, dessen eindringliche Blicke so spürbar sind, wie die Wunden seiner Vergangenheit.

Bloomsbury presents The Way of the Waves, written and read by Martin Dorey 'A wonderfully entertaining and deeply inspirational adventure by one of life's great enthusiasts' – Tim Moore, travel writer A slow, low-carbon journey by bike through Europe’s western fringes. Part personal...

The sport of surfing has a mystique and allure that has transformed many of these icons into mythical figures. Surfer Stories brings them together in one definitive collection that will appeal to those who surf and those who don’t!

The Rip Curl Story is the remarkable tale of two young surfers who pursued an audacious dream to make a living in pursuit of the ultimate ride. The brand they built, Rip Curl, not only satisfied their own surf- and wanderlust but also inspired countless others, both fuelling and riding the wave of the global youth revolution of the late '60s. Rip Curl's mantra became 'the Search' - the chasing of new waves on distant shores - as they embraced new thrills such as skiing, snowboarding and windsurfing and aimed always to make better equipment to elevate the experience.